COLORS/MATERIALS

• 1837-49: Colors: Men wore gray-blue, bright blue, brown, green, or plum-colored coats with black velvet collars, light colors, grays and blacks for eveningwear, black frock coats, gray or light-colored hats. Women wore secondary/tertiary colors, delicate grays, violet, tan, gray, silver-blue, black moire, pink crepe or net over satin, white/colored gloves, green, gold, and yellow. Materials: Men wore broadcloths, serge, wool, cashmere, and cotton. Women wore gauze, lace, dimity, percale, rich silks, serge, flannel, camel's hair, merino, plaid cashmere, printed muslin, plaid-checked-or striped gingham, calico, silk net, tulle, crepe, grenadine gauze, satin, velvet, sable, chinchilla, gray squirrel, mink, and Chantilly, Brussels, Maltese and Spanish laces.
• 1850 - 67: Colors: Men wore grayed shades, blue, black or gray for coats, light Scotch plaids or checked waistcoats, gray, tan, gray blue, plaid, checked, and striped or black trousers (black for dress). Women wore dark shades or strong, brilliant colors, delicate grays, magenta, solferino, lavender, silver-gray, crimson, maroon, violet, black, purple, white stockings, gray silk, colored hose beginning 1862, gloves in white, lemon or fawn. Materials: Men wore khaki, broadcloths, serge, light wool, new washable fabrics and coarse materials for sackcoats Women wore lace, cashmere, Paisley, velvet, taffeta, crepe silk, shot silk, merina greandine, alpaca, rep, camel's hair, flannel, serge, broadcloth, grosgrain, beaded velvet, percale, dimity, embroidered muslin, tulle, organdy, gold and silver brocades, crepe, jaconet, lamb's wool, gauze, cambric, muslin, lisle, straw, ermine, mink, seal, beaver, astrakhan, and jet trims.
• 1869 - 89: Colors: Men wore light trousers, topcoats and driving coats, plaid vests, black for evening, checked trousers under cutaway coats, colored neckties, black/russet oxfords, brown shoes. Women wore plain and flowered materials, contrasting colors, verdigris, marine blue, pale blue, electric blue, scarlet, crimson, magenta, purple, plum, green, saffron yellow, checks, stripes, plaids, and black for mourning. Materials: Men wore black broadcloths, twill, homespun, tweed, white pique, Marseilles, silk, brocade, felt. Women used crepe, crepon, poplin, batiste, pique, silk, lawn, mousselaine-de-laine, grenadine, organdie, crepe lisse, voile, gauze, lace, gold tinsel, satin taffeta, velvet, cotton, linen, net, dotted swiss, dimity, mohair, goat's hair, tarlatan, jaconet, pompadour sateen, foulard, jersey, Indian prints, wool, brocade.
• 1890 - 1900: Colors: Men wore gray or tan coats, dark winter coats, plaids, checked or striped trousers, dark formal coats, gray-colored neckties, black tuxedos, black or brown derbys, black or striped socks, white or light spats, and russet, black or white shoes. Women wore bright plaids, checks and stripes, Persian designs, flower prints, silver-gray, pink, black, white, blue, red, green, peach, orange, or brilliant red. Materials: For men, serge, twill, homespun, tweed, blue serge, mohair, gray flannel, linen, duck, pongee, seersucker, stitched leather. Women wore crepe, crepon, poplin, batiste, pique, silk, wool, voile, silk gauze, lace, gold tinsel, satin, velvet, taffeta, faille, chiffon, seal, mink, Persian lamb, sable, chinchilla, ermine fur, suede, washable leather, haircloth, crinoline, lawn mousselaine-de-laine, grenadine, organdie, crepe lisse, foulard, tarlatan, gingham, linen, muslin, seersucker, pongee, duck, dotted swiss, net dimity, mohair, and pin-seal.

JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES/MAKEUP

• 1837-49: Men: rings, cuff links, shirt studs, scarf pins, watches with chains, no fobs. Accessories used were monocles, walking sticks or light canes, white kid gloves, boutonnieres, and cigars. No makeup other than perfumed macassar oil on hair (middle/upper class), tallow by lower. Women: coral ornaments, single gold bracelets, matched jewelry sets of brooch/breast pin, bracelets and lockets with cameos, pierced earrings, gold watches pinned at waist or on long chains, mourning jewelry, diamond set arrows, and pear strands in hair. Accessories for fashionable ladies included mittens, gloves (very important), large muffs, small parasols, adjustable parasols, silk/cotton umbrellas, aprons, folding fans, reticules, silk buttons, porcelain buttons, brass/wire hook and eyes, solid-headed pins, lace trimmed/embroidered hankerchiefs, bouquets of flowers carried, and high combs. Use of makeup: paints, powder, artificial ringlets, eyebrow thickener, hair dye, perfumes, dentifrice, eye lotion to make them sparkle (ouch!), and depiltories.
• 1850 - 67: Men: rings, scarf pins, cuff links, shirt studs of gold, gems, coral and pearls, watches with chains stretching from one vest pocket to the other. Accessories included monocles, boutonnieres, braces, gloves, small walking sticks. No makeup, just perfume. Women: crystal, amber and Venetian glass beads, Roman pearls, coral beads, bracelets, gold watch on chain pinned at belt, dog collars, lockets, brooches set with quartz, garnet, turquoise, agate, seed pearls and jet, breastpins, picture frames containing hair of loved one, long earrings, wide wedding rings, mounted diamonds, bandeaus, and black mourning jewelry. Accessories included metal, glass or fabric buttons, hook and eyes, steel and silver buttons set with colored stones, jet, pearl and cameo buttons, small parasols, pagoda parasols sometimes fringed, folding fans of gauze or painted silks, velvet neck bands, velvet bracelets and cuffs, hand bouquets in small silver or gold holders, pearls, diamond combs, gilt leather sashes, decorated girdles, pocket handkerchiefs, handkerchief rings, gloves, mitts, aprongs, round or flat silk muffs, and reticules. Makeup consisted of powder and hair dye.
• 1869 - 89: Men: watches with emblems or charms on watch chain, rings, shirt studs, cuff links, scarf pins, ascot ties, four-in-hands. Added were gloves, large white, silk or cotton handkerchiefs, braces, lorgnettes, walking sticks, walking sticks used as ear trumpets. No makeup. Women: drop and hoop earrings, mourning jewelry, friendship circles, gold studs, cameos set with precious and semiprecious stones, jet enameled brooches, wide gold wedding rings, long gold chains on watches or lorgnettes, Danish safety pins, and jeweled ornaments in hair topknots. Accessories were neck ribbons, officer collars, bags or pouches, card cases, gloves, mittens, brassards, pleated folding fans, gauze and ostrich feather fans, jeweled combs, cotton or silk umbrellas, walking stick parasols, Japanese sunshades, round muffs and tippets, bouquets, puffed sashes, pocket handkerchiefs, hair nets, ribbons, flowers or wreaths in hair, ribbon bow in hair topknots, aprons, pockets instead of reticules, flat purses, card cases, and smelling salts. No makeup, but curling tongs used on hair.
• 1890 - 1900: Men: watches in vest pockets, watch chains with charms or trinkets suspended from one vest pocket accross to the other. Accessories used were umbrellas, crook-handled bamboo canes, nose glasses or pince-nez on cords, gold spectacles (older men) white kid gloves, leather or chamois outdoor gloves, belts, suspenders, folding pocket book, gold toothpick in pencil case. No makeup. Women: gold or silver watches with fobs, worn in pocket at belt, or attache to left shoulder by fleur-de-lis or bow knot, large lockets on chains (usually heart-shaped), small lockets on short chains, dog collars studded with precious stones, pins of diamonds, brilliants or pearls used to secure high collars, narrow wedding bands, diamond solitaire engagement rings, link bracelets fastened by small heart-shaped padlocks, and bangle bracelets. Accessories included chatelaine bags, hand purses hooked onto belt, lorgnettes, muffs - usually flat, fur necklets, feather boas, 4-buttons gloves, card cases, buckled belts, sashes, small fans, folding wheel-shaped fans, long-handled umbrellas, usually tipped in gold or mother-of-pearl, small parasol with lace, long elaborate hat pins, and gold pens in mother-of-pearl holder. Makeup consisted mainly of starch used as face powder.